June 24, 2009
I woke to the rumbling sounds of the engine at 5:00am, and I peered out the porthole to see a small sliver of somewhat industrial looking land covered in construction, tall cranes, and smoke stacks under the pinkish-orange glow of a Spanish sunrise. This was not at all how I had envisioned my first sight of
Everyone was super excited at breakfast because we couldn’t wait to get off the ship. At the table we made plans to meet up with different groups throughout the day as everyone had different field excursions to work around. Around 10:00am I made my way off the boat with three friends and stepped foot on land for the first time in 7 days (168 hours-ish). I didn’t believe I was actually in
We had no idea where we were going, or where we wanted to go for that matter. We were just walking enjoying the city. One of the girls had a map, and we decided on finding a market that was marked in the center of Cádiz. At first we tried to go by street names and find it ourselves, but eventually we knew the first verbal contact with Spaniards would need to be attempted by one of us. Since only one other girl in our group knew any Spanish, that dropped the odds to 50/50 for which one of us tested it out. I went into one of the shops and asked the old man inside, “Donde está el Mercado Central?” (Where is the Central Market?) Now, that wasn’t so hard. Luckily the directions were easy enough to understand. We had actually walked way too far past it. I guess Cádiz was smaller than we thought, or at least the streets were. Shortly we found the market, but it wasn’t what we had expected. It was a food market equipped with a variety of colorful fruits and vegetables and seafood along with other meats hanging everywhere. It did not smell good due to this high concentration of fish in one area.
After venturing through the market, we stumbled upon a large plaza lined by outdoor cafés and The New Cathedral of Cádiz. The cathedral was an enormous white stone building with two tall domed bell towers on each side and a large gold dome in the back third of the structure. When we walked inside everyone just said “wow” because the architecture was so incredible. The double doors leading into the building were about five times average size, and the walls were bordered as well as cross-sectioned with Corinthian-styled columns gauged into the wall (Check out my architectural terms now, thanks art history haha. This is a typical Roman style FYI.). These columns guided your eyes to the gorgeous vaults and arches of the ceiling. The central focus being the large dome which was located directly over the main sanctuary. This dome had rows of coffers (square depressions in the ceiling used for decoration) which became gradually smaller as they reached the highest point (the circular skylight at the center of the dome). This design made the dome appear taller than it actually was. This is another technique used by the Romans in the Pantheon. I’m going to have to use this stuff in one of my art history papers- haha. Netting hung about 10 feet below the ceiling to catch any pieces of stone that might randomly fall off of the old building. There were nooks lining the walls containing religious artwork and altars.
We found a stairwell leading down to the crypt, so we had to go down and check it out. It was very dark and creepy, just what you would expect of a crypt. There were a few paintings on the walls, gated altars, and a petrified body in a glass case. That was a little freaky. We also discovered that there was a serious echo down there, so we had fun experimenting with that.
After touring through the cathedral, we went to an outdoor café for our first meal in
I was going the Cádiz walking tour and archaeological museum. Unfortunately, most of the places we walked to were places I had already been this morning. The museum was interesting though. The Museo de Cádiz housed archaeological artifacts in the ground floor and a variety of paintings on the second floor. Cádiz is actually the oldest city in western Europe, founded by sailors around 3.000 years ago. There were two Phoenician stone sarcophaguses, examples of some burials, cold stone columns, sculptures, and a bunch of small artifacts found throughout the region. After wandering through the museum for a while, we made our way to the flower market in the center of town. I got some gelato (ice cream) and stamps from the post office to send some of the many postcards I had accrued. Then, we went by the same cathedral I had seen earlier in the day, and eventually made it back to the boat around 5:00pm.
I had been walking all day, but I still found the energy to go out in search of free WiFi. Apparently the pier was one of these free WiFi locations, but this was too good to be free. I ended up walking a few blocks, around construction, to an internet café where you pay one Euro per half hour. I attempted to call my parents on Skype, but that was a disaster due to the amount of time it took to download Skype and the ridiculous amount of background noise. I rushed back to the ship to change for my flamenco night field excursion.
I loaded the charter bus with two of my friends, and we drove for about 30 minutes along the coast to the countryside. When we reached our destination, there was already a crowd of fellow SAS-ers (Yes, that’s what we call ourselves) mingling outside of a mini bullpen. Upon exiting the bus we were greeted with our choice of either dry or sweet sherry manufactured in this region of
First, two women came into the center of the ring clad in red and black billowing dresses. They did some traditional flamenco dancing, and eventually a man led a large black horse out into the ring for the women to dance around. It was a little bit odd, and the announcer added to the oddness. He tried to make it way more dramatic than it needed to be. The girls did a series of about four dances before the mini bullfight started.
Bullfight isn’t exactly the right word. It was more like a baby bull being chased by a man wearing a really tight overall pantsuit and swinging a pink cloth from side to side. The bull was actually running away most of the time rather than charging. They did take it up a notch towards the end, and change the pink cloth to a red one which had a minor effect on how fast the bull reacted. It was fun though.
Then, they bused us over to a large building where we were greeted with again more sherry. Then we were seated in a room with large round tables covered with appetizers and sangria. It was awesome. Then the real flamenco show started. There was a guitarist, a female singer, three female dancers, and one extremely attractive male dancer. The women would do sets together and individually, and the man did a partner dance with one of the women as well as an individual dance. In the individual dances, their feet were moving so fast it looked like they were doing tap at some points. It was really cool. The partner dances were so in sync, and they were just awesome. At the end of the show each dancer pulled a member of the audience on stage to try flamenco, and my friend
I was exhausted by the end of the day and fell asleep on the bus ride back. When we got back on the boat there was a line of people waiting their turn to exit the boat because they were going to take advantage of this first night in